February 16, 2010
Anthony
Bourdain
Nuggets of food wisdom from the traveling chef.
No one in the culinary world best personifies cool than Anthony Bourdain, chef and host to Travel and Living’s hit series, No Reservations. The food adventurer chats with Danio Caw and answers questions about the nastiest things he has ever eaten in life, how repressed sexuality leads to chef idolatry, and finally, who’s cooler, him or Gordon Ramsay.
Chefs have been empowered that they can essentially tell their customers what to eat. Where do you think that comes from, chef?
Um, it’s something we think about. A lot of chefs discuss it all the time. There are a number of theories. One, dislocation of people from the countries to urban centers. They crave a home they might never have had—a nesting impulse. Both parents work; you don’t have a family meal. Often in families, in some way it is a kind of vicarious thrill of seeing Nigella or Rachel cooking for you. Another theory is people are more repressive—or restrained sexual at times. People are not getting laid enough. They are eating more and looking [at] food the way they look at pornography. I mean, I dunno. For me, who’s better? You know, soccer players are nice but what do they actually do for you? You get stuck in a dessert island with a soccer player, what the hell, at least the chef can feed you. So you know, we perform a vital service.
What is the foulest food you’ve ever eaten?The worst flavor was the fermented shark in Iceland. They rot it. They petrify it and then they pickle it in lactic acid and, you know, durian is like fine perfume. It [fermented shark] has this horrible smell, lethal to touch. I don’t think anyone likes it. I think they eat it to get in touch with their proud Viking roots. It’s just horrible. The single worst meal was the business end of a warthog ass. Literally eating crap, fur, and sand in every bite is not a good experience. And also, that was really a long course of antibiotics for me. I knew it while I was eating: “Aw man, I’m gonna be really ill for a long time.”
Chef, you’ve always loved meat. How do you think you can get the vegans back to loving loving?Well, I cook bacon around them as often as I can. Bacon is the gateway protein for vegetarians.
What would you cook for somebody you hate?Ooh, a veggie burger.
Does an Anthony Bourdain need comfort food? If yes, what is comfort food for you?Yes. My Mom's roast beef and Yorkshire puddin. A real, New York pastrami sandwich. Meatloaf.
How did your personality and being a rebel help you in the kitchen?Normal people don't survive in the kitchen long. The restaurant business attracts misfits. I was a misfit. If anything, the kitchen made me less of a rebel. Real rebels don't show up to work on time every day. I did.
So, who do you think is cooler, you or Gordon Ramsay?Oh, me. He’s certainly a very, very smart guy. Hilariously funny guy! A great cook, a great chef. I love his restaurant in London. Huge respect for him. But if you see his Hell’s Kitchen, the American show, it’s a disgraceful carnival! It’s a cool vaudeville freak show. He would never ever, ever hire any of those nitwits to do anything in any of his restaurants. Only because of that. In every other way, I love Gordon. I love his food and [he is] another guy I’m happy for. I mean, he grew up hard.