I never imagined becoming vegetarian. Not that I wasn't moved by footage and accounts of cruelty to animals. Not that I didn't see the healthy benefits. It's just that I couldn't imagine going a day without, say, juicy fried chicken or some flavorful spaghetti. That is, until I moved to Baguio almost five years ago.

At age seven, I went on my first trip to Baguio with my family and fell in love with it at first sight. My parents recall that I declared: “One day, I'm going to live here.” I don't remember this, but 20 years later, I did. With the promise of a more laidback lifestyle surrounded by nature, I packed my bags and headed to the Summer Capital of the Philippines for a job opportunity, even without knowing anyone there.

As I explored different parts of Baguio every weekend, I was struck by the surprising diversity of food choices. Steering clear from fast food fare and anything that I could find in Manila, I discovered restaurants that made the most of the availability of fresh vegetables--most of the greens from Benguet province are supplied to Luzon and the Visayas. But I'm not just talking about salads! PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals)-Asia Pacific even included two Baguio restaurants among their “Top 10 Vegetarian Restaurants in the Philippines”.

You'll definitely be in bliss after indulging on this.

One of them, and among those I came to frequent is Bliss Cafe. Owned by vegetarian couple Jim and Shanti Ward, it lives up to its name. I like to start with the Vegetarian Chicharon which, dipped in vinegar, feels every bit like its sinful version. But the Wards swear it's not! Sunshine, fried rice with bits of cheese and vegetarian sausage with toast, is guilt-free comfort food indeed. 'No Quack' Duck curry is my hands-down favorite entree, not only because the consistency is like its meaty namesake, but because the curry is just spicy and creamy enough to be enjoyable, without wreaking havoc on the senses. The perfect ending is the Strawberry Crepe (for this, you need to make sure you come when the luscious fruit is in season). The crepe itself is just the right thickness and complemented by the generous amount of fruit.

Aside from the food, Bliss is so cozy that you won't mind lingering between dishes to appreciate the artwork, browse the small library, appreciate the general ambience, or converse with the Wards. Jim loves to talk about Bliss' activities or his involvement in the Daily Cycle Movement. While Shanti just might let you in on the secret to her perfectly crispy, greaseless Vegetarian Chicharon.

After you ascend seemingly unending flights of stairs, you arrive at the penthouse of La Azotea building, and behold VOCAS (Victor Oteyza Community Art Space), an entire floor devoted to artistic expression run by filmmaker Kidlat Tahimik. It is a feast for the senses—from the architecture and artwork, to music and the food at the cafe known as Oh My Gulay.

OMG (as it's fondly called) has a sparse menu (it can fit on one side of a bond paper); its simplicity is in stark contrast to the cacophony of sensory experiences throughout the art space. The selections lean toward the salad-and-pasta category. Kidlat himself highly recommends the Talong Parmigiana. I also like the Lumpia Salad, tofu-and-carrot lumpia on a bed of watercress and lettuce served with Asian dressing. The Chow2x is a dish of egg noodles with carrots, broccoli, and bell peppers. Their crepes are best paired with a steaming cup of brewed Cordillera coffee.

There's always an exhibit at VOCAS, so you can appreciate the art or stare out at the Baguio skyline from any of their cozy nooks. If you're lucky, you can catch a concert, special screening, or play onstage.

Azotea Greens is what I like to call healthy turo-turo. It is also on PETA's Top 10. At a modest space right beside the second floor staircase of La Azotea building, at any given day, you can expect to find a good variety of food made from vegetables and veggie meat. You can order ala carte or avail of their budget meal, which comes with rice, soup, and your choice of viand and vegetables. My favorites are the fried kangkong, mushroom sisig, barbeque, and curry. The spaghetti and palabok are perfect for merienda. If you want to prep some at home, they sell frozen mushroom sisig that's a cinch to prepare.

Another budget-vegetarian restaurant is Heaven on Earth Vegetarian Center. Its budget meals come with soup, red mountain rice, and your choice of viand and vegetables. Its vegetable dishes are simple and straightforward, like laing, pinakbet, and ginisang kalabasa. My favorite among its veggiemeat dishes are the barbeque, tocino, and asado. Also try the fried tofu. If you still have space for dessert, sample their homemade yogurt with syrup and no frills.

Other vegetarian fare can be relished at Pizza Volante Session Road (for its pasta putanesca and pesto, and vegetarian pizzas), Vizco's Session Road (for its pesto and half-and-half pasta), and Pizza Ricco at Ayuyang Bar, Gov. Pack Road (for its vegetarian pizzas).

Though I would not dare to claim that I'm a vegetarian, there are days, even weeks, when I have gone without meat and not noticed. Oh, I can say that it's generally better for the environment or that it's healthier... but in reality, the vegetable and veggiemeat dishes available are simply delicious. No other explanation necessary.


Bliss Cafe
Lobby, Hotel Elizabeth
Gibraltar corner J. Felipe Streets, Baguio City

Oh My Gulay
5/F La Azotea Building
Session Road, Baguio City

Azotea Greens
2/F La Azotea Building
Session Road, Baguio City

Heaven on Earth
4/F Abanao Square
Abanao Street, Baguio City